Saturday, October 8, 2022

Exploring Iseo

We have lost our perspective on what is normal in the morning, but suspect we are in a rather leisurely mode these days.  We are sleeping until 8:00 or even 9:00.......which we never do at home.  We are finding ourselves heading down for breakfast approaching 9:30 or 10:00.  We suspect that is evidence of falling into a pattern of relaxation and 'stress-avoidance' if that is possible!

Our plan for the day was to check out an old monastery and head down to the center of Iseo, which is one of the small towns on the bank of Lago d'Iseo......about 7 miles from L'Albereta.  But it is a long 7 miles on some beautiful back roads through the vineyards.



















view from our bedroom








































































































MONASTERY OF SAN PIETRO IN LAMOSA

This was an amazing find that was unexpected.  It is a monastery that was started in the 13th century, and while it was adapted over the years, there are some very nice remnants of 15th century frecoes to observe.  Before 1083, for hundreds of years, this place was probably seen and experienced by man as sacred, due to its position and its geographical characteristics, and was the seat of first pagan and then Christian cults. A few decades before 1083 a private church of the feudal de Ticengo family was erected on the area of ​​the monastery. From 1083 to 1535, the small church, donated to the Cluniac monks of the abbey of Cluny, was transformed into a monastery which carried out important religious, economic, social-welfare and cultural functions. 

From 1535 to 1783, the monastery was acquired by the canons regular of San Salvatore di Brescia, who thought of building the chapel in front of the entrance. The prestige previously acquired and the 'Roman' character some new managers favored his election as the parish church of Provaglio. From 1783 to today, the monastery has been almost continuously the private property of the Bergomi family (which later became Bonini-Bergomi); now an important portion belongs to the Valgoglio-Beretta family.

There is a lot of strange history to the site, most prolificall including the stories of the 'Disciplina' commitments to its worshipers.  It initially arose as a small church, just after the year 1000, when Europe came out of medieval lethargy and gave rise to the development that involved the whole world. So much so that the church, which almost immediately passed to the most authoritative monastic order of the time, the Cluniac one, grew rapidly and became a monastery.

In 1536 it became the property of the regular canons of San Salvatore di Brescia and the church was definitively enlarged with the addition of a chapel. From this building there is access to a beautiful cloister and from it to the Discipline of Santa Maria Maddalena, so called because it was the place where the Confraternity of Disciplini met, a movement that practiced rigid practices of mortification of the body to atone for sins.

Let us be clear here.......this was the practice of self-flagelation.......which is discussed openly in the review of the 'disciplina' room......hard to imagine, but not so much if you have seen or read the 'DaVicni Code'  This is crazy, eye-opening stuff!!!































































































































































Fall is upon us!




















While the roses of summer still hang on




















The waterfront in Iseo






















always cappucino!
























































L'Albereta view from upper dining terrace









Lunch on the terrace





















followed by dinner later that night! just a wonderful, quiet spot













































Friday, October 7, 2022

A Wonderful Day Between Two Places - tra due luoghi

 This was a transition day.  We were moving from Garganano to Erbusco.......from Lafay to L'Albereta.  The challenge was to find time to enjoy both places in a meaningful way.  The trip between the two was about an hour and a half, so our plan was to spend the morning relaxing at Lafay.......eat lunch and try to get to L'Albereta by about 3:00.  In the end, the timing worked great and we got to Erbusco at 3:20.

We tried a restraint maneuver at the breakfast buffet, but with limited success.  We were thinking of jumping in the car for a quick trip to a limonaia farm up the lake a bit, but ultimately decided that just crashing after breakfast in the sun was a much better option. 

We totally goofed off until lunch and went down to the spa pool area......where we split a salad.  Our breakfast could probably have kept us going all day!  We checked out at around 1:00 and drove back down the crazy sequence of hairpin turns......it is hard to describe how crazy this road is, but the views were amazing. 

We then navigated our way over to the route that Siri picked out for us......only having to get on the autostrada for about 12 miles.  The unmanned toll booths are a bit of a challenge! but we made it.  Things became a little familiar to us after the autostrada as the route in to L'alberta is now somewhat familiar.  We have been here two times before and it is one of our favorites. 

We arrived and they grabbed our bags and whisked the car away.  The lobby was pretty much the same as we remembered.  We were not sure where our room might be this time, but were pleasantly surprised.  It is in a smaller, separate building of two stories with only three rooms.  We are on the second floor and have a really nice room with a balcony looking out over the vineyards.  Erbusco is the center of this wine region which is famous for its Franciacorta wine.......which is the northern Italian version of prosecco.  They nicely remembered our previous stays and we had a bottle in the ice bucket in our room.

Briefly, the Franciacorta allowed us to take a late nap!  Dinner at 7:30 was amazing (there was a special fresh white truffle menu!) and we were excited to see a new breakfast and late night bar area on the upper terrace.  More to explore tomorrow!

First pics are of Lafay.......and the second section is L'Albereta.  

LAFAY














































































































































































































































































































































L'ALBERETA