Monday, September 19, 2022

Shifting into a Slower Gear........on a beautiful day!

 We decided that it might be a good idea to slow down a bit and enjoy a more leisurely pace. Our adventure today would be next door to the island of Giudecca and back a couple of times.  The irony is that the separation between San Giorgio and Guidecca is only about 150 feet......but there is no bridge, so we rely on the vaporetto.  That's actually not a problem as it comes by every 12 minutes. 

We had breakfast in the apartment and headed out to another beautiful, sunny day.  The first trip was primarily to do some basic grocery shopping.  We stopped first at a local produce stand close to the vaporetto stop, then headed back to the Coop for more basics.  In between, we couldn't resist a coffee and pastry at Majer, a well-known hangout in Venice.......5 shops, including one on Giudecca.

Every morning the campanile greets us as we leave the apartment



















and every morning the water is our first adventure!













































































































































































































































































































































































































































Back to La Residenza for some work and lunch.  We have actually started to sketch and open up the water colors.......but have yet to gain much momentum!  It is all about the rythm. 

we have not had the energy to get into this rhythm yet!  soon......the fitness area at La Reseidenza




Around mid-afternoon we decided to go up in the campanile at San Giorgio Maggiore.  The afternoon was clear and the views were spectacular!  Lots of good shots here!











































This shot shows La Residena, where we are staying




















On the way back to the room we explored a bit more in the gardens, and took a quick look at the only other occupant on the island, a local yacht club. 






























We have developed a pattern here, where 6:00 (today 6:30) rings in the trip to the roof terrace for wine and snacks.  It is so peaceful and quiet up there, a wonderful way to unwind in the evening.  Tonight we had some entertainment, as there was a group of people trying to navigate their way through the maze.......with some frustration!









For dinner, we headed back to Guidecca.  On the way, there were a bride and groom being photographed......quite an evening for pictures.  We checked out a couple of places near the Zitelle vaporetto stop, but in the end decided to stop again at the 'nameless' pizzeria on the fondamenta (at least we can't find the name!).  It is really comfortable because it is at a bend in the fondamenta where there is more space between the buildings and the water.  It was very busy (also a good sign) with a combination of visitors like us and quite a few locals.....always a good sign.  We initially had a table one row back from the water, but within 15 minutes a group moved out and we shifted over.......amazing location 3 feet from the water's edge.......actually something to be very careful about because this is not a place you want to fall in!






















The sunset was truly remarkable!  It looked like something out of a Turner painting.......absolutely captivating.  The service was a bit slower due to the dining activity, but that allowed us to thoroughly enjoy the evening.  At the end of the meal, we found a sea gull friend!






























We don't have pictures here, but on the way back, there was a dramatic lightening show up in the Italian alps to the north.......we think in the Dolomites, but it is possible it was Austria.  The lightening was very far away (as the starts were out overhead) but the frequency and illumination from that distance was startling.......a lot of fun to watch.

Sunday, September 18, 2022

Dorsoduro and Pranzo Domenicale

 Sunday ...... waking to the sound of church bells in the campanile. A wonderful, sunny fall morning.We have started a 'semi' routine of yoga stretching before breakfast ....... but probably need to improve. We are averaging about 7,000 steps a day, an probably two miles on boats! Breakfast was simple - oatmeal, toast and pears (Andrea gets an extra 'star' for thinking to bring packets of instant oatmeal ...... perfect!

We love being greeted each morning by this view as we round the corner from the Residenza to Cafe San Giorgio. It has not lost its impact.






























San Giorgio Vaporetto Stop




                 EXPLORING DORSODURO

We decided to take the vaporetto down four stops and across the Giudecca Canal to Zattere stop in the sestiere of Dorsoduro.  We have always liked this area of the city because you have to cross the Grand Canal on the Academia bridge to get there.......so it is usually less frequented by the tourists.  The challenge turned out to be that this was a beautiful Sunday afternoon.......and people were out everywhere.

We did a lot of exploring, recognizing places we had been before, particularly during our New Year's stay of 2013-2014 with Noel and Clara.  We stopped to window shop in a toy store and realized we were standing next to one of our favorite restaurants from that trip!  We gave some thought to possibly going into the two museums in this area......the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim........both of which turned out to be too crowded to enjoy, so we decided to postpone to a mid-week trip.  Andrea, however, managed to find the museum gift shop and we left with a heavy bag!

We kept wandering and found ourselves on the fondamenta (waterside) and were about to sit down for a gelato and cafe.......but then got the inspiration to escape the crowds and head back to Guidecca and have lunch at the Belmond Cipriani.  It turned out to be a great idea, and a wonderful, relaxing and delicious meal.  The Belmond was serving lunch at the pool bar, but also at Cip's Club, a rather unique 'pavilion' built right out over the water.  After the great 'pranzo' we needed a retreat to the apartment and a well-deserved Sunday afternoon nap!



Gondola repair yard



view from Accademia Bridge looking towards San Marco and Santa Maria della Salute


view of the Grand Canal from Accademia Bridge looking towards Rialto

the yellow building is where our apartment was for New Year's getaway with Noel and Clara in 2013-2014

CHECKING OUT THE BELMOND CIPRIANI

the grounds and vineyards around the Cipriani are rumored to be where Casanova frolicked with his women
                    an artist commissioned 'pots and pans' demonstration cooking pavilion at the Cipriani

LUNCH AT CIP'S CLUB

vitello tonnato  
veal milanese 
'cipamisu'
tartlette al limone

BACK TO LA RESIDENZA


our 'humble' but efficient kitchen getting the job done!